For a low-key summer, we slept in quite a few beds along the way. Most of these were made necessary by a week’s road trip to visit friends in Pennsylvania, a two-day drive in each direction. A two-day drive means finding a place to spend the night along Interstate 80, which pretty much guarantees an adventure in mediocrity. For years I have been searching for the “sweet point” in pricing for these forced overnight stays. My standards used to be low: clean sheets, hot water, and a towel or two. But enough bad experiences (and, full disclosure, the process of aging) have led me to raise the bar. In no particular order I now seek:
·
A room that does not smell like ancient cigarettes
·
Free wi-fi and a breakfast with decent coffee
·
A chair you can sit in with a light you can read
by (remarkably uncommon)
·
A toilet whose flush does not terrify you in the
middle of the night
·
A hotel that is not filled with partying
participants in a softball tournament
·
A carpet I am not afraid to walk on barefoot
·
Something resembling blessed Quiet
Budget hotels almost always guarantee a miserable night, so
we opted to go mid-scale, staying in Hampton Inns in both directions. I got at least some of the things on my list,
but I also got one of the things I most detest: a duvet. They are quite the thing these days. Pity the cleaning staff that has to change
these monsters. And a duvet pretty much
ensures that you will be either too warm or too cold all night. Just as I am waiting for “wraps” to disappear
from restaurant menus, I am waiting for duvets to go the way of the water bed.
While visiting friends in Lewisburg, Pa, we stayed in a
downtown Bed and Breakfast, The Tawsty Flower.
I am beginning to overcome my prejudice against B and Bs. I am a slow starter in the morning, and
especially hate the social obligation to chat with strangers before I have had
my coffee. I was deeply scarred by my
first B and B experience, where I was seated with a man who was eager to
discuss doorknobs. Seriously. But we had our simple breakfast alone both
mornings in Lewisburg, the room was small but comfortable, and the location was
ideal. It did, however, have a duvet.
While visiting friends in Petersburg, a region of mountains,
hollers, and gravel roads, we stayed at the only B and B I anticipate with
eagerness, the Inn at Solvang. It is
pretty much in the middle of nowhere, a mansion surrounded by glorious
gardens. We had the place to ourselves,
which meant we could sip a cocktail in the music room or listen to crickets and
tree frogs in the gardens while gazing at the night sky. The breakfasts are spectacular – pancakes made
with spelt from their own mill, drenched in maple syrup tapped from their trees,
to give one example. Excellent
coffee. Oh, and an on-site
masseuse. Solvang is almost worth a
two-day drive just to stay there. “Our”
room (we have stayed in it three times) is huge, wonderfully furnished, and has
– wait for it! – a blanket and bedspread instead of a duvet. It was hard to leave and head for another
Hampton Inn in Indiana.
We had several overnights in Madison, one in a really lousy
place (as a bonus, the hood of our car suffered overspray from a restaurant
next door that was being painted) and the other in the new Hyatt Place
downtown, which was so nice that Susan said, somewhat amazed, “I really like
this carpeting!”
More recently, we spent two nights in Munising to check on
the progress of the construction project at our cabin. We have not stayed at a motel in Munising in
sixteen years. Most of them, as one
friend expressed it, have a permanent smell of old snowmobile boots. We stayed at a new place, a summer-only
motel, right on the shore of Lake Superior.
Not much of a breakfast, but also no duvet, the room was clean, and you
can’t beat the view. The manager is
willing to cut me a deal on rates for the runs I will need to make up there
these next two months.
So we now have good options in Munising and Madison, and
places I would gladly return to in central Pennsylvania. Which leaves the problem of Interstate travel
and the ghettos of chain hotels and omnipresent Applebees. I would be grateful for suggestions.